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roDdimeDls 



Spices 



and.., 



...Flavors 



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Condiments, if properly used, assure digestion and hasten 
the absorption of food by the system. — THEODORE CHILD. 



''.y 



Copyright, 1694, i;v 
MARY E. GREEN, M. D. 



PREFACE 

In this pamphlet no attempt has been made to give specific 
directions as to the uses of spices and condiments. It must 
be borne in mind that their usage results neither from the 
demands of fashion nor of a vitiated sense of taste, but from 
their own germicidal and preservative qualities. From the 
spiced and perfumed mummies of the Pharaohs to the spiced 
apple and pickled pear of our own store-rooms, the same 
reason for the use of spices exists — their antiseptic qualities. 
A short account of the divers kinds and qualities of these 
excellent substances may lead, it is hoped, to a more intelligent 
use of them in cookery. Nothing has been said about adulter- 
ation, for, while most of the adulterants of spices are harmless, 
still, fraud lies in the fact that the buyer pays a high price for 
an article part of which is worthless. As every housewife 
cannot be her own chemist, her safeguard lies in buying only 
of reliable spice houses. 



COXDIMENTS, SPICES AND FLAVORS. 



MAXIM as ancient as the time of Democritus of Abdera 
reads: "Whatever pleases the palate nourishes." Modern 
science has proven the truth of this maxim and has given 
us acceptable reason why condiments are no more 
necessary in palace of connoisseur than in hut of bar- 
barian, why they are as eagerly used by the native of Labrador as 
by the swarthy son of the tropics; why they are the property of 
Mohammedan, Confucian, Buddhist, Gentile and Jew, of all castes, 
races and civilizations. Acting principally upon the nervous sys- 
tem through the sense of smell, condiments stimulate the flow of 
both the saliva and gastric juices. They materially aid digestion, 
and the familiar phrase, "to make the mouth water," states a physi- 
ological fact. From this standpoint the fragrant aroma of steaming 



coffee and the savory odor of a stew are as truly condiments as 
pepper and salt; for condiments are the magic wand which trans- 
forms most commonplace of foods into essences, subtle and delicious. 
They are equally appropriate to the steaming potage of the French 
peasant and the sacrificial altars of Palestine and Greece. Nothing 
more closely tests the skill of the cook than his use of these appe- 
tizing flavors. Like genii of the fairy tale, they are willing, versa- 
tile and obedient as slaves; when master their pathway is strewn 
with sorrowful though most aromatic wrecks of soups and liors 
cfoeuvres. They should permeate food as incense does the atmo- 
sphere, delicate, impalpable and as indescribable as they are requi- 
site. The too abundant use of a certain condiment or spice, the 
lack of another or the injudicious mingling of cei'tain others will 
ruin the finest pudding, sauce or soup ever compounded. 

Condiments and spices are as ancient as civilization. The 
oldest books of the scriptures, notably Exodus, Leviticus, Job and 
the Canticles, make frequent reference to salt and spices, sub- 
stances which were then costly, chiefly dedicated to royalty and the 
uses of temple and altar. The Greeks followed the Semitic customs 
to some extent in their disposition of spices, not using them as 
largely in their food as have later races. They were fond of aromatic 
flavorings and it is said that the laurels of Greece, of which the 
cinnamon is a species, possessed that quality to a greater extent 



than those of any other country, although all laurels have aromatic 
leaves. 

Homer in the Iliad refers with naive surprise to those people 
unaccustomed to the use of salt, and in the ninth book pictures 
Patroclus as 

" He strews a bed of glowing embers wide, 
Above the coals the smoking fragments turns, 
And sprinkles sacred salt upon the urns." 

By the mediaeval Romans condiments were well liked. They 
made, according to one author, a pickle from the tunny fish, jiist as 
their languorous descendants are doing to-day, and also prepared a 
condiment from the intestines of the mackerel. "Liver of the 
capon, steeped in milk and beccaficoes, and dressed with pepper" 
was another of their highly seasoned dishes. 

In the thirteenth century Dante, in the description of the 
alchemists and forgers of the tenth gulf of the Inferno, referred to 
one Xiccolo of Sienna, "who first the spice's luxury discovered." 
Contemporary with him in England, William Langland, in his 
"Vision of Piers the Plowman," inquired if thou "hast in thy purse 
any hot spices?" 

Frequent reference by the writers of that day indicates that 
these substances were expensive and used mainly by the luxurious. 
Venice had for many years controlled the trade in spices, which 



were brought overland from the Orient in immense caravans, and 
not until Diaz and Vasco de Gama, in the fifteenth century, rounded 
the cape of Good Hope did their costliness diminish. After that 
event spices and condiments ceased to be regarded merely as luxu- 
ries and became as necessary to the plainest of soups as to the 
Puree de volaille a la Bearnise of the French chef. 

All classes of people use condiments in some form, from the 
wealthy epicure who flavors his terrapin with mace, salt, pepper, 
and sherry to the negro who sifts okra through his fingers into his 
gumbo soup or the Indian, stirring the contents of a steaming kettle 
with twigs of sassafras. 

Condiments have been defined as those substances eaten with 
meat and combined with salt while spices are chiefly added to 
articles containing sugar. They may be classified as follows: 



Vegetable 



(Clove, cinnamon, cassia-bud, pimento or 
I allspice, nutmeg, mace, cardamon, pepper, 
I cumin, coriander, fenugreek, grains of 
I Paradise, anise, dill, caraway, basil, cher^-il, 
1 celery, fennel, bay-leaves, summer savory, 
I parsley, thyme, sage, sweet marjoram, 
I mint, tarragon, onion, leek, garlic, saffron, 
(^capers, turmeric and curry powder. 

f Mustard, 
j PUNGENT J horse-radish, 
I AROMATics ] ginger, 
[ [ chilies (cayenne pepper). 



Mineral -{ Salt. 

Animal ■{ Pastes and essences of shrimp, lobster, bloater, anchovy, etc. 

Sauces ■*• Chutney, tabasco, lime juice, Worcestershire, ketchup, 
} carachi, cassareep and soy. 

T>T,.T-TT^c. \ Various vegetables and fruits, such as cucumber, olive, 
^^^^^^^ I sanphire, etc. 

TT'r .,,->r>c \ Vanilla, tonka bean, almond, chocolate, orange and 
^^'^^^^''^ various fruits. 

Acids ■{ Vinegar, lime juice, verjuice, 

p, ^ Curagoa, Noyau, Ratafia, anisette, kiimmel, absinthe, 

CvORDiALS ^ cii^rtreuse. Maraschino, etc. 

Salt is even more valuable as a condiment than as a preservative. 
It is used in every staple article of cookery and, as has been said, 
'•Plutarch was right when he styled salt the condiment of condi- 
ments." Cereals and vegetables are tasteless without the addition 
of that mysterious quantity, "a pinch of salt," bread is insipid with- 
out a dash of it, as also are meats and puddings. Meats, when so 
cooked that their own salts are not extracted, as when roasted, are 
more palatable without additional salt than any other food so 
prepared. 

Though salt is unused because unattainable by certain barbaric 
peoples, such as the Bedouins, it is considered to be a necessity by 
all others. Aristotle relates that in Greece a salt spring was be- 
lieved to be a direct gift of the gods, salt always comprising part of 



the religious offerings. Salt is referred to in the scriptures more 
than a score of times. In Leviticus we find the command that 
"every oblation of thy meat offering shall be seasoned with salt." 
In J ob occurs the question "can that which is unsavory be eaten 
without salt?" The Biblical comparison to salt which has lost its 
savor refers to the custom still retained in Oriental countries of 
adulterating with earth the salt which 
finds its way to the extremely poor, who 
cannot pay the original high price. So 
costly was salt in the ancient world that 
the old caravan routes were first formed 
for traffic in this article. The "Salarian 
Way" of Rome was so named because of 
its immense commerce in salt and to this 
day the trade route across the Sahara is 
by this means mainly supported. Re- 
cently, the salt beds of Europe and the 
salt mines and wells of the western hemi- 
sphere have made this article so abund- 
ant that its cheapness effectually protects it from adulteration. 

Cloves are the unexpanded flowers of an evergreen tree found 
in the East Indies and indigenous to the Molucca Islands. They 
are called by the Chinese "fragrant nails" owing to the peQiilia.r 




Clove. 



shape of the dried clove buds, and the English word is derived from 
the Latin clavus, and French clou, also meaning nail. It is doubt- 
ful if cloves were known to the Greeks or Romans, the Venetians 
having first obtained them from the Arabians, while the clove trade 
was later monopolized by the Portuguese. Then it was owned by 
the Dutch who expelled the Portugese from the Spice Islands in 
1605. The Dutch made great effort to control the entire spice trade 
of these islands, which was a source of abundant wealth, and were 
even known to furnish the market with the adulterated ai-ticle, the 
oil of clove being extracted by pressure and the buds being given a 
fresh appearance by a glaze of olive oil. They also preserve the 
mother clove, or fully developed fruit. This resembles the olive in 
appearance and, being less pungent in flavor than the bud, makes a 
dainty sweetmeat. The clove tree is not hardy and grows best when 
planted in loamy soil, sheltered from the winds by the hills. It has 
been introduced into the West Indies and Guiana. Cloves from the 
Moluccas and Ceylon are more valuable, being richer in oil, darker 
in color and far more aromatic. 

Cinnamon is the inner bark of a tree allied to the laurels. It is 
indigenous to Ceylon and the Penang Islands although believed by 
some authorities to have originally come from China, where it has 
flourished since the remotest times. As it is mentioned in the Old 
Testament it is conjectured that the Hebrews obtained it from the 



Arabians who in turn procured it from India. Later it was men 
tioned by Herodotus. It is known that Hippocrates used cinnamon 
medicinally and the modern medical world has but recently made 
the discovery that oil of cinnamon is a valuable antiseptic and 
germicide. Not until 1506 was cinnamon discovered wild in Ceylon 
and not until 1770 was it improved by cultivation. The tree grows 
to a height of twenty and occasionally thirty feet, although, as the 
bark from the young shoots is of finer flavor, that only is used. 
Cinnamon shrubs are cultivated in fields, the finest being located in 
the region of Colombo, Ceylon. The shoots, which grow in clusters 
of from four to ten, are cut to the roots twice a year, after the rains. 
The epidermis is peeled off, the bark is put up in bundles about 
forty inches long and thus dried and marketed. Three grades are 
exported, the finest, thin, of a brownish yellow color, fragrant and 
sweet of odor and correspondingly high of price. It is also adulter- 
ated with cassia bark, a cheaper production. 

Cassia is the inner bark of a species of cinnamon called Chinese 
cinnamon or cassia lignca. The greater part of it is exported from 
China. The bark is put up in bundles about half the length of 
cinnamon bark and is more pungent and less sweet of flavor. Cassia 
buds are the unripened fruits of the tree which produces Chinese 
cassia. In shape and size they resemble cloves, in aroma, cinnamon, 
and are usually preserved whole for sweetmeats or spices. Cassia 



is mentioned by Moses as an ingredient of the holy oil, in Psalms as 
a perfume and in Ezekiel as a spice. 

Allspice, sometimes called Jamaica pepper and properly, 
pimento, is native to the Island of Jamaica and has not been suc- 
cessfully cultivated outside of the West Indies. The pimento tree 
is an evergreen of the myi'tlebloom family, all of which are exotic 
trees, and reaches a height of thirty feet. The allspice of commerce 
consists of the berries of this tree, exported whole after being dried, 




Cassia Buds, 
and so called because their aroma resembles that of cloves, cinna- 
mon, juniper and nutmeg. The berries are gatliered when green, 
being left on the twigs until dried by the sun, by which means all 
the essential oil is retained. 



10 




N utmea 



Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an exotic evergreen tree 
native to the Banda and other of the East Indian islands. In ap- 
pearance it resembles the orange, yielding fruit 
when eight or nine years of age and bearing 
for fifty or sixty years. It requires a light soil, 
moisture and shade, and cannot be propagated 
in regions in which these conditions are not 
present. The tree bears fruit during most of 
the year, in the Molucca and other islands three 
crops a year being gathered. The fruit, which 
requires nine months in which to mature, is 
carefully dried before the pericarp is removed and the 
kernel taken out. There are three varieties, the male or barren, 
the royal and the queen, the last, a small, round nutmeg, con- 
sidered most valuable. The inferior nutmegs are used for the 
extraction of nutmeg butter or oil, known as "oil of mace." About 
six per cent of volatile oil is contained. It is stated that more nut- 
megs are exported to the United States than to all Europe. The 
Dutch formerly preserved the entire fruit, kernel and pericarp, in a 
syrup of sweet vinegar for a sweetmeat. This nation when in con- 
trol of the spice trade of certain of the East Indian islands made 
strenuous efforts to confine the nutmeg tree to the Bandas. But 
the "nutmeg bird," a species of blue pigeon, frustrated their designs 



11 

by scattering the nuts all over the islands after feeding upon their 
pulpy covering. So determined at one time were the Dutch to keep 
the price of nutmegs high that, if an unusually large harvest oc- 
cui'red, part of it was burned by them. 

Mace is the reticulated aril covering the kernel. When fresh, it 
is of a crimson color, reaching the golden tint only when dried and 
after some months. In its properties it is similar to the nutmeg. 
The leaves of the nutmeg tree as well as the fruit are highly aromatic. 

The cardamon is a member of the ginger family and is native to 
Malabar, Madagascar and Ceylon. That from the latter country 
is of quite large size. It consists of a rhizome or root stock from which 
rise tall, flag-like leaves. The flower stem springs directly from the 
root and is much shorter, bearing racemiform clusters of small 
white flowei's. The fruit consists of greenish pods half an inch in 
length, each pod being three capsuled and containing numerous 
seeds. These seeds are pungent in flavor and constitute the valu- 
able part of the plant. The pods are dried slowly as rapid drying 
causes them to split, thereby losing the seeds. Cardamon seeds 
were used by the ancient Greeks both as a spice and as medicine. 

Pepper, with cinnamon, salt and incense, was one of the staple 
commodities which anciently passed over the caravan routes be- 
tween Venice and India. At that time its price was extremely 
high and, according to E. M. Holmes, rents were frequently paid 



12 




in this article as late as the middle ages. After the sack of 
Rome by the barbarians one of the articles of tribute demanded 
by Alaric was a thousand pounds of pepper. As 
late as the eighteenth century the pepper trade was 
confined to the Portugese. In recent years it has 
become one of the cheapest of our spices. 

The pepper plant is a vine, of the order piper- 
acecE, which grows wild in China, is also indige- 
nous to Malabar and other islands of the East 
Indies, and has been introduced into the West 
Indies. The plants require a rich moist soil, 
bearing after the fourth year and continuing 
fruitful for from eight to fourteen years. The most famous of 
the pepper islands are the Penang, which furnish more than 
half the amount produced by the entire East Indies. Only 
the berries of the pepper plant are valuable and these, being 
gathered before fully developed, have a wrinkled appearance when 
dried. The berries used for white pepper are decorticated either in 
the islands or in London and reach the United States ready for 
grinding. The finest grade passes through more than twenty dif- 
ferent operations before it is considered marketable. 

Black pepper differs from the white in the leaving on of the 
hull, which is black and contains the acrid principles of the flavor. 



Eoiind repper. 



13 

Hence, white pepper is less pungent and fully as fine in flavor as 
the black. Shot pepper consists of the finest berries, those richest 
in oil. It is selected by throwing a quantity of the berries in water. 
Those which sink are collected, labeled, and sold as shot pepper. 

Long pepper, referred to by the Greeks as piperi macron, is the 
unripe fruit of a species of pepper, an inch or more in length and 
and shaped like a spike. The flavor is similar to that of ordinary 
black pepper. African pepper is another variety. Those best 
known to the western markets are Penang, Tellicherry and Malabar. 

Cumin or cummin is a small herbaceous plant, native to Egypt 
and very early cultivated in the Mediterranean countries. It is now 
grown in India, Sicily and Malta, the seeds only being valuable. 
These contain a large proportion of essential oil which gives them 
an aromatic but acrid flavor. They are not now used in cookery 
though receipts are still extant which prove them to have once 
been considered a valuable culinary spice. The Latin poets relate 
that the ancients used cumin seeds medicinally, their effect being 
to produce languor. They are referred to in Isaiah as being 
"beaten out with a rod" and also in the Mosaic law regarding tithes. 

Coriander is a .small umbelliferous plant native to the eastern 
of the Mediterranean countries but now cultivated quite generally 
in both Europe and America. The fruits, erroneously called the 
seeds, are nearly always mentioned in the earlier recipes for meats 



« 



14: 




Coriander. 



and puddings and to this day many a country housewife consid- 
^ ers them indispensable to the flavoring of 

dried apple pies. The plant grows wild 
in all parts of Palestine, especially in the 
Jordan valley. 

Fenugreek is an herbaceous plant al- 
lied to the clover. It is native to the 
^ v^^JF^ Asiatic countries and is still cultivated in 

France and Germany. The seeds were 
formerly used as a spice, but now only as 
an ingredient of Curry powder, owing to 
their strong, bitter and unpleasant flavor. 

Grains of Paradise are the dried seeds of a reed-like plant allied 
to the ginger family and indigenous to western Africa. The fruit 
which contains the seeds is four or five inches in length and of a 
bright red color. The seed are now ne ver used, excepting occasionally 
by brewers. Formerly they were esteemed as a spice for cookery 
and were one of the ingredients of the famous Norwich herring pies 
of old England. In flavor they are extremely hot and pungent. 

Anise is a little annual of the order umbelliferse and scarcely 
more than a foot in height. It is indigenous to Europe, although 
cultivated in many of the northern Mediterranean countries. The 
seeds are powerful aromatics, used both medicinally and in the 



15 

preparation of a liqueur called "anisette," which is to the Italians 
what kiimmel is to the Germans. The star 
anise is a tree allied to the magnolias, 
the seeds of which are stronger and less 
pleasant of flavor than those of the com- 
mon anise. They are called star aniseed 
from the star-like shape of the fruit. 
The anise mentioned in the New Testa- 
ment as part of the tithes is a different 
plant, believed to be dill. 

Dill is a small herb, native to Spain, 
which produces umbelliferous stalks of 
yellow flowers. It is still cultivated in 
portions of temperate Europe. An aro- 
matic oil is extracted from the tiny seeds 
which are also used, whole, for flavoring 
pickles. 

Caraway is also an umbelliferous 
plant growing wild in the meadows and 
pastures of both Europe and Asia. It is 
cultivated for its mildly aromatic seeds, 
although in the northern countries of 
Caraway. Europe the root, which resembles the 




16 



parsnip, is also eaten. No aromatic of temperate climates is more 
common than the dainty, white-blooming plant growing in the 
kitchen gardens of both hemispheres. Its seeds are used for the 
spicing of cheese, cakes and candies, and in Germany in the rye 
bread called "kiimmel-brod," which is universally eaten. The 
seeds are also used in the making of an aromatic cordial called 
"kiimmel." 

Basil is not now used as extensively in cooking 
as formerly. Its native haunts are India and Persia, 
although since it yields gracefully to culture, it is 
to be found in many old-fashioned kitchen gardens. 
Its aromatic properties are similar to those of other 
garden herbs. 

Chervil is an umbelliferous annual possess- 
ing aromatic leaves and somewhat resembling 
parsley in flavor. It is used in Europe as a pot- 
herb for soups and stews, but is chiefly known in 
J X^^ America as one of the obsolete delicacies which 
deserve to be still popular. The root, which is 
fleshy and fusiform in shape, is cooked and eaten 
by the people of southern Europe. 

Celery is a veritable plebeian, originally grow- 
Basil. iug vvild in the ditches and fens of Europe, a 




17 

coarse, offensive and poisonous vegetable. Few plants are so suscept- 
ible to the influences of cultivation and it is difficult to recognize its 
unaristocratic prototype in the tender, white and aromatic stalks of 
the garden product. It belongs to the parsley family and every por- 
tion is useful to the cook, from the daintily curled tops which may be 
used for both flavor and garnish, the stalks which may be eaten 
plain, dressed raw in salad or cooked, to the seeds, the flavor of 
which makes even the poorest of soups relishable. The seeds are 
now commonly ground for the making of "celery salt" or "celery 
pepper," as the same product is variously called. A variety of 
celery, called celeriac, is cultivated in certain European countries, 
notably Germany, the root only, which is large and fleshy, being 
eaten. The famous "wild celery" of Chesapeake Bay is simply "eel- 
grass," an aquatic plant which bears no relationship whatever to the 
umbellifei'a", of which order celery is a species. 

Fennel is an umbelliferous plant, native to portions of temper- 
ate Europe and Asia, especially Portugal. The fruits possess an 
aromatic flavor while the tender shoots are used for salad. The 
plant and its culinary value was well known to the Romans, and it is 
to-day cultivated in both Europe and America. The frviits of the 
European fennel are used in the making of an aromatic di'ink, 
while in America the plant is chiefly cultivated for its leaves. It 
has been said that fennel is to fish what mint is to lamb, and in cer- 



18 



tain of the southern states mackerel is considered of too strong a 
flavor to be eaten unless cooked with fennel. The fennel thus used 
grows wild, the green leaves being tied in bunches ahd boiled with 
the fish. 

Bay leaves are the 
leaves of a shrub be- 
longing to the laurel 
tribe, which grows wild 
in the Mediterranean 
countries. Among the 
Greeks the bay leaf was 
consecrated to the uses 
of poetry, heroism and 
Buy Leaves. religion. Not until later 

times was it used as a flavoring for foods and for the decoration 
of various dishes It grows wild in certain of the the southern 
states but the leaves are usually exported from Europe, dried. The 
leaves are used in soups, stews and pickles and, although the average 
housewife finds it next to impossible to procure them, scarcely a 
recipe for these articles of food but includes bay leaves among its 
flavorings. 

Summer savory is a hardy little annvial which has long grown 
wild in southern Europe and is now largely cultivated for culiuai-y 




19 

use. Both the summer and winter savories are fragrant and are 
valuable in the seasoning of sausages and gravies. 

Parsley is a native of the island of Sardinia and, having been 
improved in both fragrance and appearance by culture, is more val- 
uable than any other herb for the garnishing of dishes. Its curled, 
crisp, green leaves give the poorest salad or meat a tempting ap- 
pearance, well sustained by the fineness of flavor it imparts. 
Its flavor somewhat resembles that of celery. The little herb 
may be seen in nearly every garden during the summer months 
and often in a pot, or kitchen window-box during the winter, from 
which it may be pkicked fresh daily. The experienced cook would 
part with any other half dozen condiments more willingly than 
with parsley. The plant belongs to the umbelliferce, which order in- 
cludes the carrot, parsnip and celery. It is said to have come 
originally from Egypt and mythology represents Hercules as adorn- 
ing his head with its curled leaves. 

Thyme, a little under shrub native to the Mediteiranean coun- 
tries, is allied botanically to sage, summer savory and sweet basil. 
It possesses very small leaves and whorls of tiny, lilac-colored 
flowers, from which thymol or oil of thyme, a valuable germicide, is 
distilled. In flavor it is fragrant and aromatic and it may be 
readily cultivated in gardens. The wild thyme of our banks "where 
ox-lips and the nodding violet growsf is a different variety of the 



20 



same order. Its name is derived from the Greek word tliumos 
meaning incense or jserf ume. 

Sage is a small plant of the order lahiatce, and is native to 
southern Europe. It has been so greatly changed by cultivation 
that little semblance of the original plant now remains in the sage 

al' 




Thyme. 
of our gardens excepting the flavor. It was known to the ancients 
and to-day its fragrant, grayish green leaves constitute one of our 
commonest flavorings. 

It was an Englishman who once said that "mint made lamb out 
of an old sheep"! Perhaps he loved it also because of the legend 
that it once existed in the form of a beautiful maiden, transformed 



21 

by Persephone into the modest aromatic of our gardens. The mint 
designated is that member of the labiate family known as spear 
mint, native to Europe but grown in all portions of the United 
States and largely marketed. It is a small, green herb, the leaves 




Mnt. 
being highly aromatic and, when bruised, yielding a valuable essen- 
tial oil. It is equally liked in the mint sauce so indispensable to 
mutton and the mint-julep — 

" This cordial julep here, 
That flames and dances in his crystal bounds." 
Sweet marjoram grows wild in Spain and Portugal and, in a 



22 



cultivated state, throughout Europe and the United States. It is a 
member of the mint family and, like spear mint, possesses aromatic 
leaves. 

Tarragon is a small, aromatic herb, native to 
Liberia. It is cultivated in Europe and is the 
estragon of the French, who use the young 
plants largely for salads. It is hardy, and is 
grown extensively in America, being used for 
flavoring vinegar, mustard and pickles. Tarra- 
gon vinegar, from the excellence of its flavor, 
should have a place in every household. 

The onion is believed to have originated in 
Egypt although it was known in very early times 
in India. In the former country it was worshiped as a deity. 
"Cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, 
and the garlick" formed the daily food of the Israelites in 
Egypt. Italy and Spain are now noted for the immense 
size of the onions grown there, as also are the Bermuda 
Islands. Those of the latter i^lace possess a far milder flavor, a 
condition due to soil and climate. The flavor of onion, when strong, 
is unpleasant to some people to a nauseating degree and it is hard 
to see in it any resemblance to its dainty cousins, the lily and the 
hyacinth. But when skillfully used it is a valuable and wholesome 




Tarragon. 



23 

culinary condiment and is more largely employed by the average 
cook than the uninitiated ever suspect. Says one author: "The 
oniou is the sheet anchor of the skillful cook. It is impossible to 
prepare the delicate Bordelaise sauce without resorting to the use 
of onions and a shade of garlic, .... and it is the judicious use 
of these two seasonings that stamps the expert cook." 

The leek is a member of the onion family, similar in flavor, 
although milder, and the leaves of which are flat instead of tubular. 
It has been stated that in England the leek was once considered to 
be the typical plant, both onion and garlic being but species. The 
diet of the soldiers of ancient Greece was at one time leeks and 
cheese, a custom which Bulwer has satirized in a Neo-Greek out- 
burst of rhyme: 

" Away, away, witli the helm and greaves, 
Away with tlie leeks and eheese! 
I have conquered my passion for wounds and blows, 
And the worst that I wish to the worst of my foes 
Is the glory and gain 
Of a year's campaign 
On a diet of leeks and cheese!" 

Garlic possesses an onion-like bulb around which smaller bulbs 
cluster, the whole covered by a membranous outer layer. Each 
bulb is described as a "clove" of garlic and in flavor is far more 




24 

demonstrative than onion. Shallot, on the contrary, is the daintiest 
of the onion tribe, growing from a cluster of roots 
and never forming a compact bulb. 

Saffron, a plant of the crocus family, was largely 
used in mediaeval Europe as a condiment, although to- 
^,d)| day its value as a coloring substance is considered of 
most account. The coloring matter is obtained from 
the stigmas of the flower, which are of a deep orange 
(iailic. ]nie. The plant grows wild in Asia Minor, is possibly 
native to Arabia, and has long been extensively cultivated 
throughout the Mediterranean countries. That exported from 
Spain is considered the finest. At one time in Germany the 
adulteration of saffron was held criminal and punishable by death. 
History records the burning, in 1444, of a man with his adulterated 
saffron and, a dozen years later, the burning of tv.'o men and a woman 
for a similar offense. The salutary effect of this penalty was not 
permanent, however, as it is to day extensively adulterated with a 
cheaper article known as safflower. In the Orient, a few nations still 
add saffron to their rice both for flavor and color while in Europe it 
is now most largely used for coloring macaroni, vermicelli and other 
pastes. Saffron is mentioned in the Old Testament in connection 
with spikenard, cinnamon and other spices, and appears to have been 
used by the early Greeks medicinally, and as both dye and i:)erfume. 



25 



Capers are the unopened flowers of a 
low, trailing shrub which grows wild in 
Africa and southern Europe. It is native 
to Italy and is said to have grown wild 
upon the walls of ancient Rome. It is 
cultivated in France, only the small, gray- 
ish green, flower buds being of commercial 
value. They possess an aromatic and 
slightly pungent flavor and, when pre- 
served as is usual in either salt or vinegar, 
lire used for flavoring gravies, being well- 
nigh indispensable in the serving of roast 
mutton. Four or five grades of capers 
are exported, the finest grade consisting 
of the tiniest and most perfect buds ^hich gradually diminish in 
value as they increase in size. 

Turmeric, while classed with condiments owing to its pungent 
and aromatic properties, is most extensively used as a coloring 
agent. It is obtained from the root of the curcumci longa, a plant 
allied to the ginger family and native to India and Annam. It is 
used as a condiment only by the Orientals who flavor their rice with 
it, its greatest value to the cooking world being due to the fact that 
it is one of the chief ingredients of curry powder. 




Capers, 



26 

Curry powder is a manufactured condiment, one of the most 
aromatic and highly seasoned used. It originated in the East 
Indies, through the skill of whom it is not known. The story goes 
that the famed and delicious cookery of the Orient came about in 
this fashion. The early English, French and Dutch, when setting 
out for the East Indies, each determined to seize and appropriate 
the islands, spices and all; for fear of being compelled to eat poor 
and unappetizing food took with them their most accomplished 
cooks. From the friendly concourse of these chefs arose cei-tain 
of the celebrated eastern dishes, and from its ingredients it is easy 
to believe that curry was one of them; for in it are united, with the 
herbs of the temperate zones, the spices and fruits of the tropics. 
The ingredients used vary in character and in proportion according 
to the different houses or localities manufacturing it. One recipe 
calls for the following: turmeric, black pepper, cayenne peppei-, nut- 
meg, ginger, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, cardamon seeds, coriander 
seeds, cumin seeds, caraway seeds and fenugreek. In India the fol- 
lowing ingredients are sometimes used, besides those above named: 
anise, almonds, asafoetida, butter (ghee), cocoanut and cocoa oil, 
cream and curds, various nuts, garlic, lime juice, mangoes, saffron, 
salt, and tamarinds. In India alone there exist nearly forty 
different methods of preparing curry, to which list might be added 
the recipes of the numerous spice houses of Europe and America. 



27 

The ingredients of curry are always finely ground and well mixed. 
When lime-juice and butter or oil are added to the curry, a paste is 
prepared. This is preserved by being packed in earthen jars. The 
curries and curry pastes of Ceylon and Java (these being often com- 
bined with garlic) are quite as celebrated as those of India, while 
the English and American preparations rank enviably high. 



,%^V;' 




Mustard. 

The mustard of commerce consists of the pulverized seed of the 

mustard plant, which grows wild in England and which may be 

cultivated in nearly every part of the globe, even in India. The use 

of mustard as a condiment dates from the Elizabethan age, although 



28 



it was used medicinally by the most celebrated physicians of 
antiquity. It was first compounded in its present form for table 
use by an old lady of Durham, from which circumstance it came to 
be widely celebrated as '"Durham mustard." One of the merchants, 
to whom this industrious old lady sold her mustard, is credited with 
saying that he owed his wealth, not to the 
mustard which people ate but to that which 
they left on their plates. Two varieties of 
mustard are cultivated, one producing white 
seeds, the other, seeds which are tiny and black. 
Both varieties of seeds are used, whole, in the 
spicing of pickles. It is requisite that mustard 
possess good keeping qualities, that it be of a 
bright yellow color, and have an aromatic as 
well as pungent flavor. 

Horse-radish is a plant allied to the nastur- 
tium and, like the seeds and stems of the 
latter, possesses a sharply pungent flavor. It 
3\ 2^f'^J^ is native to England and western Europe 
'^ '' ^"^"t^ ' although cultivated in nearly all portions of 
the temperate zone. The root, which is large 
Ginger. ^^^ fleshy, is grated, mixed with salt and 

vinegar, and used as a condiment. It may be prepared in season 




29 

and bottled, either with vinegar or dessicated, keeping for use 
during the remainder of the year. 

Ginger is a flag-like plant, probably native to the East and 
West Indies, the rhizomatous root of which is the only portion 
commercially valuable. According to some authorities ginger w&h 
known to the earliest of the Greeks and Romans and has been 
a common spice among the nations of Europe, including England', 
since the eleventh century. Under the Plantagenets and Tudors 
ginger was used as a flavoring for meats, unlike the modern 
custom of using it only in curries, cakes and beverages. To-day 
ginger is exported from both the Indies, that from Jamaica 
being particularly fine, from Africa, from China, from India 
and from Borneo. The African ginger is of excellent flavor 
but of dark color. It is chiefly sold to bakers. That from Borneo 
is good for household use, having a sweet and aromatic flavor and con- 
taining very little fibre. From Calcutta the "race" or 'hand" ginger 
is exported, so called because of the palmate shape of the root. 
It is exported before being decorticated and is not a high grade 
ginger. The root is often preserve i in sugar, being taken when 
young and succulent. It may be preserved whole or cut into 
cubes or slices. Both preserved and dried it is largely exported 
from China and Japan. 

Chili is the Spanish name for the pod of the cayenne, 



Guinea pepper, 




30 
and other 



species of capsicum. Capsi- 



cum is a member of the night shade family, in no 
way related to the true pepper. It is native to tropical 
America, although now found in nearly all of the 
warmer countries. Cayenne is the pod of the capsicum 
pulverized to extreme fineness. It should be of a dull, 
red color and, if very red, is quite likely to be adulter- 
ated, often with red lead or vermilion. Cayenne pep- 
per is, perhaps, the most acrid and pungent aromatic 
used and is also valuable medicinally. There are many varieties of 
capsicum, the most noted being the cax)sicu7n annum, cultivated in 
the East Indies, in Mexico and southern parts of the United States, 
and from which cayenne pepper is made; ?iadi i\iQ capsicum frutes- 
cens, the Guinea or bird pepper, a much smaller pod and which, 
dried whole, is most often used in cookery. Chilis are used in enor- 
mous quantities by natives of hot countries, a paradoxical custom it 
appears to be, and the hottest, most "peppery" dishes known have 
originated where the sunbeam is nearest vertical. Those best 
known to Americans are the chili con came and the chicken tomale 
of Mexico. In the southern states cayenne is customarily added to 
all meats, soups and stews. Capsicum is an agreeable and valuable 
stimulant, having the medicinal effect of alcohol without disastrous 
results from its use. 



31 

Mixed seasonings are now to be found in nearly all markets and 
in point of convenience deserve to be popular. They consist of the 
aromatic herbs and spices, mixed and prepai-ed by experts and in- 
tended for the seasoning of poultry and meats of all kinds. 

Penang or mixed spices, are also a modern preparation and are 
useful in cooking, pickling and preserving. They consist of aromatic 
and pungent spices mixed in varying proportions. 

Among condiments prepared from animal foods, those of the 
anchovy, lobster, shrimp, and Yarmouth bloater are the most com- 
mon. The anchovy is a tiny, silveiy fish, caught in the Mediterranean 
sea in vast quantities. The most famous come from Gorgona, a 
small island near Leghorn, where they are caught in nets as they 
come iu from the deeper waters for the purpose of depositing spawn. 
Anchovies were used as a condiment by the most luxurious of the 
Romans, one preparation, called "garum," consisting of the partly 
decomposed intestines of this fish mixed with spices. They are now 
exported for use as a condiment to all parts of the world, being pi-e- 
served whole as well as in the form of pastes and essences. The 
pastes are prepared by pressing the fish through a sieve, simple 
flavorings and some oil being added. The essences consist of the 
fish steeped in a highly spiced brine or pickle, then strained and 
bottled. Essences of lobster, shrimp, and various fish are similarly 
prepared. 



Various appetizing mixtures intended to give relish to meats, 
fish and soups, and composed of vegetables, fruits and divers spices, 
are known as sauces. "Roots, herbs, vine fruits and salad-flowers, 
they dish up various ways and find them a very delicious sauce to 
their meats, both roasted and boiled, fresh and salt." No other 
sauce made compares with genuine East Indian chutney. It is a 
thick sauce, made from the mango apple, chilies, spices, lemon juice, 
raisins, figs, salt and sugar. Those most celebrated are the Bengal 
Club, Terhoot, Sweet Lucknow and a number of club chutneys. 
Trinidad chutney is particularly fine. Ceylon chutney is often 
slightly flavored with garlic. Another kind is "mango chutney, a 
characteristic Singalese condiment, among the ingredients of which 
are fresh, grated cocoanut and chilies carefully brayed together in a 
mortar. This chutney is of a rich roseate hue; and after eating it 
with his prawn curry the epicure feels like the Grand Turk." 

Carachi is a sauce little known in America, although, as it is 
much liked abroad, I give a recipe for its making, which sufficiently 
defines its character: one head of garlic, one dessert spoonful of 
cayenne pepper, three table spoonsful each, of soy, mushroom 
ketchup, walnut pickle, and mango pickle, five anchovies and a pint 
of vinegar. 

Cassareep consists of the inspissated juice of the root of the 
bitter cassava, fiavored with various spices. From the cassava, or 



33 

manioc, is prepared tapioca and also cassava flour of wtiich bread 
is made. The root is poisonous because of the prussic acid con- 
tained, this, however, being dissipated by heat. After the juice is 
extracted, it is boiled down to the color and consistency of molasses, 
after which spices are added. It is the basis of Worcestershire and 
many other sauces and is valuable in the flavoring of soups and 
ragouts. It is largely exported from British Guiana and is used 
throughout the tropics. 

Worcestershire sauce is one of the commonest of table condi- 
ments. It is prepared from cassareep and varying proportions of 
spices, garlic, peppers, and lime-juice, according to the tastes of the 
various houses manufacturing it. 

Both lime-juice and Devonshire sauces are similar in prepara- 
tion and flavor to Worcestershire, the former being quite acid, owing 
to the greater proportion of lime-juice used. 

Ketchup is a sauce made variously from tomatoes, mushrooms, 
walnuts, oysters, etc. It should be semi-fluid, about the consistency 
of a good puree and, although spices may be added, the original 
flavor of the basic ingredients must always be preserved. Color is 
one desideratum. In tomato ketchup the sauce is always made of 
the ripe tomato fruit, although, as the color is sometimes produced 
artificially, the only safeguard lies in purchasing of reliable manu- 
facturers. The tomato ketchup is a typical American sauce, corre- 



34 

spending in our dietary with the mushroom ketchup of the English. 

Soy or sJioyu is in general use throughout the East, particularly 
in China and Japan, that from the latter country being acknowledged 
the finest made. One authority states that our word ketchup is de- 
rived from the Chinese name for soy, Mtjap. The basis of soy, 
the soy bean, has been cultivated in Japan since the earliest 
dynasties, and is to-day one of their important crops. The different 
varieties of the soy bean produce three kinds of soy known as the 
black, the green and the white. The process of making soy consists 
in first boiling the beans and mixing them with parched barley and 
wheat, coarsely ground. This barm is fermented and when the 
whole mixtvire is covered with fungi it is mixed with brine of a cer- 
tain strength, which has already been boiled and allowed to cool 
This mixture is then kept for fermentation about twenty-five 
months. It is stirred with a wooden paddle twice a day during 
winter, three times a day in summer and, when sufficiently fer- 
mented, is put through a soy press. It is then heated to 130 degrees 
Fahrenheit and, after becoming cold again, is put up in bottles and 
casks. It may be preserved for any length of time. In appearance 
it resembles Worcestershire sauce and from a nutritive point of 
view is superior to any other sauce in our markets. 

Soy is manufactured in every part of Japan, no fewer than 
10,682 firms being engaged in making it in 1891. It is eaten by the 



35 

entire Japanese population with every meal and, besides being a 
sauce, is sufHcient as a salt. Used upon fish, beef-steaks and meats, 
generally, it gives a relish that is impossible to the choicest of cook- 
ery otherwise. In Japan it is used by all classes excepting the 
extremely destitute, who cannot afford to buy it. 

Tabasco is a popular sauce, the chief ingredient of which is the 
pulp of the red pepper. This, a species of chili, came originally 
from Central America and through cultivation, largely carried on in 
the South, its strength and flavor have been greatly improved. The 
sauce is extremely hot with chilis and, as it keeps well in any cli- 
mate, it is liked by connoisseurs. 

There are on the market numerous preparations known as salad 
dressings. They are useful in cases of inexperience or emergency, 
but are by no means equal to the freshly made mayonnaise of the 
home kitchen. There is real art in preparing a good mayonnaise 
and a Spanish proverb reads: "Four persons are necessary to the 
making of a salad dressing: a spendthrift for oil, a miser for vine- 
gar, a counsellor for salt and a madman to stir it all up." 

Pickles are those articles of food, fruit or vegetables, which are 
preserved by immersion in vinegar, with or without the addition of 
salt or spices. Cucumber and green tomato pickles are the com- 
monest varieties. When vegetables are mixed, as with chow-chow, 
piccalilli and "mixed pickles," cucumbers, small onions, green beans, 



36 

cabbage, pepper-pods, cauliflower and various spices are used. 
Fruits, such as apple, melon, peach, crab-apple and pear are also 
pickled. 

Pickled sanphire, although at one time popularly used as a con- 
diment, is now little known outside of England. It is a variety of 
sea-weed and grows upon dangerous and rocky cliffs. Shakespeare 
refers to "the sanphire gatherer's dangerous trade," and another poet 
has apostrophized the 

" Green girdles and crowns of the sea gods, 
Cool blossoms of water and foam," 

quite omitting to mention the fact that the "girdles and crowns" 
make, when chopped and packed in vinegar, a most delicious pickle. 
Unlike most condiments, this is, as are all seaweeds, nutritious. 
The people of the Sandwich Islands, as well as the English, consider 
sanphire, both the true and false varieties, a choice condiment. It 
is specially liked when served with mutton. 

One of the choicest of condiments is the olive. It is the fruit of 
an evergreen tree, native to Syria and lower Asia but now cultivated 
extensively in southern Europe and California. Unlike most 
pickles it may be classed as a food, owing to the oil contained. The 
fruit is picked by hand and carefully sorted about six weeks before 
it would ripen. It is first placed in strong lye for about twenty- 
four hours, then removed to fresh water where it may remain several 



37 



days. After several washings in fresh water the olives are removed 
and packed in brine. They are ready for use in from one to three 
months. The residents of the olive districts 
both in Greece, Spain, and in California often 
prefer the olive preserved after it has ripened, 
the oil having then matured and the flavor 
being finer. Among the export trade there is 
much prejudice against it owing to its dull, 
black color. Olives should be of good color, 
crisp and firm, but never tough. The Spanish 
=r^^^^ and Italian olives are widely popular but are 
|A\1 really no finer than the best California products. 
\\l The candle-nut, used as a relish and some- 
what resembling a green walnut, is the fruit of 
a tropical tree. It is chopped fine, packed in 
jars, or bottled, with salt added. As a relish 
it is highly prized, specially by the natives of the Sandwich Islands. 
Flavors are used almost entirely in the making of sweetmeats, 
candies and pastry. Vanilla is perhaps the most choice, being 
invariably used in the prepai'ation of chocolate and cocoa for the 
market. The vanilla vine is an orchid, native to Central America, 
and cultivated in South America, the West Indies, Mexico, and 
upon the islands of the Indian and southern Pacific oceans. The 




Candle-Dut. 



38 



vanilla of commerce is made from the delicate, volatile oil ex- 
tracted from the seed-pods. These are several inches in length 
and great care is exerted in curing that the flavor be not destroyed. 
The curing process occupies about six mouths. The vanilla plant 
bears fruit wheu about three years old, remaining productive for 
thirty or forty years. The best vanilla is exported from Mexico, 
while that from Brazil is of an inferior quality. 

The Tonka bean, called also 
Tongua and Tonquin bean, is fre- 
quently sold as a substitute for or 
adulterant of vanilla. It belongs to 
the leguminosce, producing thick, 
short pods from which an oil, re- 
sembling vanilla, is extracted. The 
tree is common iu British Ciuiana and 
the tropics and grows to an immense 
size. It is much cheaper commer- 
cially than vanilla. 

The extract of bitter almond con- 
sists of a tincture made from the 
kernel of the uut. The tree of the 
bitter almond originated, it is believed, 
in Prussia, although now growing wild 




Vanilla Vine and Bean. 



39 

in southern Europe. The flavor obtained from the kernel is due to the 
prussic acid developed in the process of making the tincture. A sim- 
ilar flavor exists in the kernel and leaves of the peach, a tree allied 
botanically to the almond. Flavoring extracts are also made from 
the orange, lemon, strawberry, and other fruits. They are also pro- 
duced chemically, as many alleged fruit-flavors found upon the 
market prove, from the coal-tar products. 

The pistachio or pistache nut is particularly liked by confec- 
tioners because of its delicate flavor, resembling that of the almond. 
It is the kernel of a pine-tree, is small and of a light green color. 
It is native to Europe and the far East. 

Cordials or liqueurs are used both for flavoring pastries and 
ices and, in the way of beverages, as aids to the digestion. In 
the latter case they are taken in very small quantities just at the 
close of a meal. 

Curagoa is one of the most celebrated of cordials. It was 
originally made in the island of Curagoa, whence its name, and is 
prepared from limes, orange peel and spices. It is still an important 
source of revenue to its native island. 

Noyau is a liqueur made from brandy, flavored with bitter 
almond. 

Ratafia is a liqueur similar to Curagoa and noyau, which is 
flavored with peach and almond extracts and spiced. 



40 

Anisette and kuminel have been already mentioned, tlie former 
a cordial made by the French and Italians and flavored with aniseed; 
the latter, a German and Russian liqueur, flavored with kiimmel or 
caraway seed. 

Absinthe is a bitter and aromatic cordial, the bitterness being 
due to the use of wormwood in its preparation. It is particu- 
larly pernicious and treacherous to use if taken before meals, as is 
often the custom, instead of afterward. It is largely used by the 
French. 

Maraschino is an .aromatic cordial, the flavor of which is pro 
duced by the use of the bitter almond and the Italian cherry, 

Chai'treuse was originally prepared by the monks of a monas- 
tery of that name in France, For obvious reasons the Pope pro- 
hibited its manufacture by them in 1864 and the original receipt 
was lost. There are four kinds now made, of which the green is per- 
haps the most popular. Chartreuse possesses the' fragrance of 
garden herbs, the aroma of various spices, flowers and nuts, and even 
the balsamy fragrance of the young, green tassel from the pine tree. 
These cordials are more largely used in France and Italy than any- 
where else. Owing to a growing sentiment against their use, they 
are tolerated to only a limited extent in America although, because 
of their common use as flavorings, they are here mentioned. 

Vegetable acids are also largely used for the flavoring of foods. 



41 

Oue of the oldest kaowu is verjuice, used by the ancients as a bever- 
age. Its use in cookery is believed to have originated in mediaeval 
France. It is made from the juice of crab-apples and of unripe 
grapes. 

Vinegar is a developed acid. The word comes from the French 
vin-aigre, meaning sour wine. If simple cane sugar be mixed with 
water and some ferment, it will turn to grape sugar, then to alcohol, 
then to vinegar. However, the best vinegar now used is a fruit acid, 
either from apple or grape. It is also made from the red and white 
wines and from sour beer, the latter being known as malt vinegar. 
In England the law allows a percentage of sulphuric acid to be 
added to malt vinegar while in America both sulphuric and muriatic 
acids are considered adulterants. Vinegar is the one indispensable 
ingredient of pickles and various saucas as well as a valuable 
condiment. 

Limes and lemons, similar fruits, contain large quantities of 
acid which is thoroughly wholesome and agreeable. To some extent 
these acids are displacing vinegar as condiments, being considered 
both more health giving and more palatable. 

The most complete and instructive exhibition of condiments 
and spices ever given was held in the Agricultural Building during 
the World's Columbian Exposition. The nations of all the earth 
contributed. There were capers and olives from Italy, spices from 



42 

Java, chutney from Trinidad, Calcutta, and the far away island of 
Ceylon; ketchup from both England and America, cassareep and 
pickled limes from British Guiana, soy from China and Japan, and 
pickles from lands galore. The long, daintily curved, vanilla bean 
was exhibited side by side with its short, fat, plebeian looking 
adulterant, the tonka bean. Cordials were sent from every 
country exhibiting. There was in one portion of the building a 
small conservatory filled with growing spice plants, among them 
pimento, ginger, clove, nutmeg, pepper, cassia and cinnamon. 



y, 




■V^r^,-- 



INDEX. 

PAGE. TAGE. 

Absinthe 40 Cayenne, vide Chili 

Almond 38 Celery 10 

Allspice 9 Chartreuse 40 

Anchovy Paste 31 Chervil ]('. 

Anise 14 Chili 2!t 

Anisette 40 Chutney 32 

Basil 10 Cinnamon 7 

Bay Leaves IS Clove (5 

Black Pepper 12 Condiments, antiquity of, 2: 

Candle Xut 37 classification of, 3: digestive 



Capers 2.") 



value of, 1; exhibition of, 41; 
mediaeval use cf, 



Capsicum, vide chill Coriander K'> 

CaP'ichi .32 Cumin. . . ."." 13 

Caraway 1.3 Curaeoa :'.!) 

Cardamon 11 Currv 20 

fiissia 8 Devonshire Sauce 3)5 

Cassareep 32 Dill 1.3 

Catsup, vide Ketchup Fennel 17 



INDEX. 

I'AGE. PAGE 

Fenugreek 14 Pickles 35 

Garlic 23 Pistache Xul 39 

Ginger 29 Ratafia 39 

Grains of Paradise 14 Safflower 24 

Guinea Pepper 30 Saffron : 24 

Horse Radish 28 Sage 20 

Ketchup 33 Salad Dressings 3.'3 

Kummel 40 Salt r, 

Leek 23 Sanphire 3() 

Lemon 41 Sauces 32 

Lime 41 Shallot 24 

Lime-juice Sauce 33 Soy 34 

Long Pepper 13 Star Anise 15 

Mace 11 Summer S;ivory 19 

Maraschino 4U Sweet Marjoram 21 

Mint 20 Tabasco Sauce 35 

Mixed Seasonings 31 Tarragon 22 

Mustard 2(i Thyme 19 

Noyau 39 Tonka-bean 38 

Nutmeg 10 Turmeric 25 

Olive 3() Vanilla 37 

Onion 22 Verjuice 41 

Parsley. : 19 Vinegar 41 

Penang Spices 31 Winter Savory 19 

Pepper 11 Worcestershire Sauce . . .33 



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